Cutting out
  1. Fold fabric with selvedges together so that you have two layers of material.
  2. Place short front and back pattern piece onto the fabric. Make sure you place the straight grain line parallel to the selvedge.
  3. Place the pocket and pocket flap onto the fabric in the same way.
  4. Pin and cut out.

Threading the machine

Here are some detailed instructions about threading the Bernina machines, from Rainford High Technology College, UK




Pocket
  1. Overlock along the top of the pocket.
  2. Fold the top of the pocket over 25mm and iron. Stitch this down following the 3rd line as a guide.
  3. Fold over 15mm seam allowance on the two sides and the bottom. Iron to hold in place.
  4. Stitch around the sides and bottom approx. 10mm in from the edge – use the 2nd line as a guide.
  5. If you have time/want to have two pockets make the second one.
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Pocket Flap
  1. With right sides together fold in half (lengthwise)
  2. Stitch a 10mm seam on each end. Notch the corners and turn out to the right side. Iron flat.
  3. Overlock the top edges together.
  4. Top stitch around the sides and bottom pf the flap. I you want to do two seam with top stitch, stitch 2mm in from the edge for the first row, then 10mm in from the edge on the second row.
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Shorts Side Seam
  1. With right sides together pin the front leg to the back leg at the side seam, then stitch a 15mm seam. Repeat with other pieces.
  2. Overlock both side seams. Iron seam allowance flat to the back.
  3. Top stitch both side seams.
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Pocket Attatchment
  1. Place pocket at desired position (straight, diagonal, middle, lower, front, side etc) approximately 20 – 30cm from waist. Pin in place
  2. Stitch around the pocket (not the top edge) 2mm in from the edge (line up the edge of the pocket against inside right edge of the presser foot).
  3. Place the flap above the top of the pocket leaving a 2mm gap between the pocket and the flap. Pin the overlocked edge in place and stitch a 10mm seam.
  4. Iron the flap over the seam allowance and top strict to hold in place. Repeat for second pocket.
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Crotch and Inner Leg Seam
  1. Overlock along the hem on both pieces.
  2. With right sides together pin the centre front seams together, stitch a 15mm seam and overlock.
  3. With right sides together pin the centre back seams together, stitch a 15mm seam and overlock.
  4. Open out and with right sides together pin the inner leg seam together, stitch a 15mm seam and overlock.
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At this point you should try your shorts on to determine where you want the waist to sit and the length of the hem. Allow a 4cm hem for the waistband and a 3cm hem for your shorts. If you need to cut any extra off, check with your teacher first.

Waist
  1. If you need to cut excess off do this once you have checked with your teacher.
  2. Overlock around the waist.
  3. Fold over the 4cm allowance for the waistband and iron flat. Pin to hold in place.
  4. Stitch around the waistband, starting at the back and remember to leave about 8cm to thread the elastic in.
  5. Determine how long you need your elastic by measuring where your shorts will sit on your hips/waist in cm. Reduce the amount by 10cm.
  6. Using a large safety pin thread the elastic through the waist band. Overlap the elastic flat and stitch it together. Reverse back and forth 3 times to make it secure.
  7. Stitch the 8cm opening closed on the waistband
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Hem
  1. Fold over the 3cm allowance for the waistband and iron flat. Pin to hold in place.
  2. Stitch around the bottom of each leg.
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Cut all threads off your shorts and quality check them before submitting for marking